Korea

I just got back from a few days in Korea...I loved it and definitely hope to return there someday!

Overview of my trip (I will continue posting about specific places I visited):

Favorite Thing/Highlight:

Touring the DMZ/JSA. It was, I believe, the most interesting place I have ever been. The last active remnant of the Cold War. I booked my tour through the USO, and I highly recommend them. You get a lot of history/backstory that you might not get with another group. Everyone I talked to said that was the best way to go, and I think they were right! Honestly, for some reason the whole experience was really moving, because you see how war has ripped families apart. Our Korean guide escort even talked about how they haven't been able to even have a letter from their relatives in North Korea since the war. She had tears in her eyes as she shared that. It truly is a bizarre, sad situation.

Fave Areas of Seoul:

Insadong was really fun for shopping (as it a lot of Seoul!), but for walking/sitting at night, I highly recommend Cheonggye. It's the riverwalk of Seoul (and according to my friend, was designed based on it), and I think, speaking as a San Antonian, that it is even an improvement on it.

Fave Things to Buy:

When it comes to travel souveniers, coffee mugs and magnets are my items of choice. In this instance, I was also delighted to find that you can buy ANYTHING emblazened with the face of your favorite Korean star. Awesomeness. Also, Korean teas are wonderful, as is the kimchi-flavored laver! You can also pick up some metal chopsticks (I recommend getting them outside of the tourist areas...try a local grocery store).

Favorite Eats:

-no suprise, bibimbap

-rice cakes. Especially glutinous rice cakes. Yum yum yum!

-Ginseng smoothies at Insadong. Try one, Korean ginseng is famous for a reason!

Recommendations for travelers to Seoul:

-Don't bother with taxis. Get a t-money card and do the subway system...it's easy to navigate.

-Try to learn to read before you go. It will help even if you don't speak Korean. It saved me when I was lost on an excursion outside of Seoul (the further you get from havey tourist areas, the less likely it is that people speak English).

-Try the jjimjilbang (Korean spa). Yes, you will be naked in front of strangers. But if you suck it up and get over it, it will be an enjoyable experience! You can even stay there overnight if you so desire, and thus save money on hotel/hostel (accomodation is not very cheap in Seoul).

-Get some helpful itouch apps (itour Seoul, and a metro map were very useful to me!)

There is so much to see, do, and try in Seoul...I definitely didn't get to see everything I wanted to, but I saw a lot and will have to return someday (definitely a place I wouldn't mind living...).

Outdoor Excursion #2

Being in the city, I forget sometimes that we are surrounded by mountains, just asking to be climbed. I am always vocalizing how much I want to go biking or climbing, but many of my friends aren't quite as into the physical activities as I am.

At last, however, my dear friend and 姐姐 (I call her my older sister) wanted to go, so, along with a friend of hers, we took advantage of the holiday week to go. Also, her friend is part of a road bicycling club, and he let me ride his expensive racing bike. It was terrifying at first (because he is really tall and the seat is high), but man you can fly on that thing! He also told me that I had sport bicycling potential (which I suspected I did, but alas, have not the time/money for that hobby at the moment....perhaps someday!).

It was a bit of a hazy day, but still worth it. The beauty of creation, and the opportunity for some (relative) quiet (a rarity in China) provided a great day! I love a good active day!

Outdoors

I love being outside. Well, I love being outside when the weather allows. Any day now it will be unbearably cold up here in Northern China, so for now I'm enjoying the chance I have to be outside.

First, I got to spend a lovely day at the park last week with my friend of 3+ years who came into town to visit...I hadn't seen him since 2008, even though I've been in China for the last year, I kept being out of town when he would come back to the city to visit...so it was good to see him at last. During the summer of 08 when I was on a teaching exchange program here, he and 2 of of our other friends (who I sometimes referred to as the 3 musketeers) were my best friends in the city....I have some really good memories with them, so I was so happy to get to reunite.

An interesting aspect of our visit, besides the fact that we are now older (if not wiser), is that our roles have been reversed conversationally. When I came a few years ago, I only knew basic Chinese, not enough to carry on a conversation (a fact which he gleefully recounted with laughter, marveling at how I could now converse with him in Mandarin). A few years ago we conversed in English (his third language, and one he was not particularly comfortable in). So, it was my turn to be inferior in language ability... :-)

Anyways, we had a nice time in the park and it was good to be outside.

Popular park activities in China include:

-tai chi (which I have only tried once)

-feeding pigeons (which I did...those with bird phobias steer clear)

-boating (usually an animal shaped paddle boat on some dirty green or brown water)

-fishing for goldfish (kids do this, but I always want to jump in!)

(view from our duck paddle boat)

Chinese Traditional Medicine (中医）

Today I had my first personal encounter with Chinese medicine. My friend was very concerned about some health issues I was having, and while I considered them minor, my friend was worried and insisted that she take me to see her friends, a married couple who practice traditional Chinese medicine. Since the basic underlying philosophy of Chinese medicine relies on the concept of harmony, disease is an indication that the cycles/energies of the body are not in harmony (which makes sense of why my friend was far more concerned with my health issues than I was).

As for my personal thoughts on Chinese versus Western medicine, I think my opinion on which is most effective lies somewhere in the middle. Chinese medicine is based on 2000 plus years of practices, and I don't totally discount it, however I do tend to shy away from practices that move more into shamanism. Most Chinese medicine that I have observed has more to do with observing natural occurences in the body (glands, pulse, etc) and make inferrences about what is out of balance...this usually leads to advice on healthier lifestyle, and sometimes treatments such as herbal medicines or acupuncture.

Today my appointment started with the doctor evaluating my pulse. He listened for about 3-4 minutes, then stated his observations. He then proceeded to give me a chropractic adjustment (I do feel SO much better after that). It was determined that one of my hips was rotated wrong, and one of my was oriented about 2 inches longer than the other. This was adjusted, as was my neck.

He asked me about other symptoms/concerns he had, and then looked at the bone cyst on my head. He was upfront in that the condition is rare and he wasn't sure that anything could be done about it, but that occasionally acupuncture can help bone swelling in other areas shrink, so we could try acupuncture.

When they said acupuncture, I was picturing tiny needles like I've seen in some places in the U.S....nope. He pulled out a gold needle, of the king that you need a special tool to insert because it is so big (it seemed like it was the size of a pencil), and proceeded to hammer it in one swift pound to my skull. It felt somewhat uncomfortable (it was literally making a hole in my skull afterall), but really didn't hurt much.

We'll see what effect it has on the bone growth. All that to say, an interesting experience.

What are your thoughts on Chinese medicine? (and you can read more here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chinese_medicine )

Love Letter #2

It's time for another chronicle in the love life of a foreign exchange student (or rather lack thereof). Yes, it is time for another stalker love letter. You see, after my Korean crush moved to a higher class (dang studious guy!) and I didn't see him much anymore, I was forced to move on.

Luckily, fate provided the perfect stalk-worthy guy in the form of a coffee shop barista. Now, I have waited a few months to prove that my love is in fact true, and not motivated by the potential free lattes that I might get from our relationship.

I sought affirmation from a friend that he was, in fact, a good potential choice, and she agreed that he had a wholesome sort of a vibe, and good looks in an unassuming way. And thus the stalking began.

I noticed right off that he greeted my by name (I guess the boss told him my name?) and was pretty good at deciphering me when I would botch the names of the drinks I was ordering in Chinese. Eventually I started just having my stand-by latte, which became a bit of an inside joke since I never really branched out (hey, I like an intense caffeine kick).

Finally, I decided to make my move. (Insert explanation: I do not know how to flirt. Hence why what follows is my version of making a move).

Cute Barista: "What would you like today? A latte?"

Me: "Ah, yes." *sheepish grin* *awkwardly clear throat and attempt a casual tone* "So, what's your name?"

Cute Barista: "_____" (Yeah, I'm not posting that in the blogosphere. But his last name is Hou.)

Me: "Ah"

Cute Barista: "My English name is Peter."

Me: "Oh, that's a good name."

(He grins and goes to get my drink)

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Yeah, I know, that was almost too hot for the blogosphere, right?

Since then we have had other such awkward interactions, most of which I will not share here since I have already established that when it comes to flirting, I am in fact stuck in junior high.

However, on my birthday, this is what he drew on my latte:

Thus, here is my love letter, which I don't think needs to be particularly elaborate.

Dear Peter,

As it so happens, my dream guy can pull off a baseball cap, looks a bit like Hyun Bin (Korean film star), and knows how to properly brew espresso. Let's get married. If you want, we can go on a date first.

Love, Julie, aka the foreign girl who always drinks a latte and creepily glances at you (but hey, I've seen you glancing at me too)

A Conversation at the Hair Salon

Somedays to be perfectly honest, I don't really feel like conversing with people. I answer the same questions over and over, and a lot of times I don't actually really need to listen to what people are asking because it is nearly always identical:

-Which country are you from? 你是那个国家的？

-How long have you been here? (This is usually followed by the encouraging, but completely unfounded statement, "Oh, your Chinese is so good!" or "You have learned so fast"...even though in reality at this point they have only heard me speak really basic phrases....my Chinese is so-so..definitely not super impressive. haha)

-What do you do here? Are you a teacher?

If it's a longer conversation it will also include:

-Do you like Chinese food?

:-)

However, on days when I actually do get into longer conversations with people who are patient with my bad grammar, it really is fun. Today was such a day...I spent the afternoon at the hair salon...I was long overdue for a cut (it had been almost a whole year!), and my friend was also there to get her hair chemically straightened.

Now, mind you, my hair vocabulary is not particularly extensive, but with the help of the amazing itouch Chinese dictionary, and a lot of describing things/hand gestures, we got things done. Having a photo with you of the cut makes all the difference too.

Some interesting things about hairdressing in China:

-it is still dirt cheap to get a haircut. As in under $4.

-the hairdressers are almost exclusively men. I've had my hair washed by women, but men always seem to do the cutting.

They did get me to spend a bit more money by selling me a giant bottle of conditioner that you leave there and then can come in and get a free hair wash/head massage with it anytime you want for as long as the bottle lasts (and judging by the size, mine will last until I die).

Anyhow, the conversation with my hair dresser started with the basics and got more and more amusing. At one point, he leaned down. "How old are you?" (In China this question is often considered impolite, but as I am a foreigner I usually have to answer). "24" I answered. In reality, because of how Chinese usually count years, I would actually say I am 25...but I never own up to that. "How old are you?" I countered. "About the same as you." he answered somewhat evasively. The conversation got more amusing from there. By the time my haircut had ended, I had given English names to all the employees, and even an Arabic name to one. As I was waiting for my friend to finish her chemical straightening procedure, my hairdresser, "Tom" called my name in English and patted the chair next to him. I sat down.

"So, why did you pick your Chinese name?" He asked, supressing a giggle. (my Chinese name translates to White Moon)

"Because...." I rolled my eyes. "It's easy to write. And it's an old name...it is fitting for my personality."

"Hm. It is pretty...but....not very modern. I think I should give you another name."

"Ok".

He proceeded to think for a long time, scratching out various names and soliciting the advice of the other hairdressers. At last he settled on one. After renaming me, he shouted "Boss! Change the name on her conditioner bottle!" In case you were wondering, my new Chinese name is "何佳欣" (He Jia Xin) Jia=excellent. Xin=happy. Honestly I am known by so many names that I am really beginning to lost my sense of self. ha

We chatted about travel.

"Where do you want to visit next in China?"

"Xinjiang"

"Oh, I have been there...it's no good. Winters are extremely cold, summers extremely hot."

"But it's beautiful."

"If you want beautiful you must visit Hebei."

"Where are you from?"

*sheepish grin* "Hebei"

"Ah"

"Where in America is the best?"

"Texas."

"What other places?"

"Hmmm....I can't think of any. Texas is the best." (Sometimes I just have to say that). "No, many parts are good. Texas is just my favorite."

"May I?" He twisted my ring, examining it, then said, "It's probably made in China right?" Yep, I'm sure it was. Still looking at my finger, he bit his lip awkwardly and proceeded to ask..."Ahhh...in America...at what age do a girl and boy, uhm, you know, get together?" Oh dear. In America, you almost never have to worry about accidentally flirting with a male hairdresser....but in China, most of them are straight. "你的意思是。。什么时候结婚。。是吗?" Your meaning is, what time do they get married?" I clarified. I wasn't about to answer if the meaning was more awkward. "Yes yes." I launched into a discussion about how people in the south often get married younger, many right out of college. "So, you are from the south?" He said. "Why aren't you married?" "I'm not old!" Laughter.

"Do you like your work?" I asked to change the subject. His answer was really sweet. "Yes, I really, really love it...because I can see so many people change to be even more pretty, and to get to help with that! I love it." He beamed. It was a sweet answer.

"So what do you like to do for fun?" He asked.

"Uhm...karaoke...uhm....is there anything else to do here?"

"No. But I really love to sing. Every week I go to KTV."

"Me too."(I did not add, "against my will". Haha. truthfully, KTV has grown on me and now I love it as much as the next Chinese person). I added, "I really love Jay Chou."

He grinned. "Which songs?"

"All of them"

"Which do you know how to sing?"

"Silence"(the name of a song)

"Ah. Your friend is almost done with her hair...sing it now! Sing for me. I want to see how good you are."

"No. I don't want to."

"Pleaseee"

I murmured a few lines under my breath, and was saved by my friend's hair being finished and her needing me to translate something.

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As a foreigner, I love the moments of random...making instant friends because of curiosity. As much as I usually hate all the stares, I remember that I am grateful for those friendly people that I get to stumble through conversation with. And I can't get to come back for my free hair conditioning scalp massage!

A Walk

A few nights ago I rode my bike to a section of the city at about 2 a.m.....sounds weird right? I walked my bike through the streets, strolling around in thought, observing the different side of my city that emerges at night. It's a great experience in a city normally overflowing with people, traffic, and noise.....the streets are nearly empty, and it's remarkably quiet (which is incredibly rare in China).

Taxi drivers are stopped at various street corners, taking advantage of a slower time to wash their cabs. Some sit outside small hole-in-the-wall restaurants, smoking, sipping tea, and conversing animatedly with other taxi drivers.

Some staggering drunks stumble their way through the streets. The train station, normally bustling with activity, stands silently, an imposing tall structure in the dark. The restaurants and convenience stores are locked, their insides dark.

By 6.am., the honking of cars, yelling of street vendors and salesman, and music blaring over various loudspeakers has begun again...but the moment of solitude under a clear night sky are precious moments of stillness in a city of millions, the majority of whom were slumbering.